Thoughts on Austin

[urbpan]

Well, we're just back from Austin, and I thought I'd share some of my impressions. Bear in mind that we were there for somewhat less than four days, so I don't speak with great authority or breadth of experience. Many of you know that cottonmanifesto and I are shopping around for a new location in which to live (several years from now, after certain family members graduate from high school). I've ranted and rambled, unintentionally insulted and alienated people, and generally been tediously obsessed with finding the best place for us to move.

The short review is this: We didn't eliminate Austin from our list.


The Positives:

- Urban Nature: Aplenty. Lots of really cool stuff, including many of my favorite categories, such as carrion birds, bats, reptiles both mundane and venomous, and large frightening-looking invertebrates. Yes, that's right: giant spiders are a big positive to me. Barton Springs, the Austin Science and Nature Center, and other city park areas are wonderful. A short (by Texas standards) drive away is one of the best birding areas in the country, along the gulf coast, which has, along with migratory novelties such as whooping cranes, tons of large animals including alligators (!!).

- Weather: As many of you are eye-rollingly aware, one of our primary reasons for leaving Boston is the cold weather and snow. I hate dressing for it, hate walking in it, and really hate shoveling in it. None of that in Austin. It gets occasionally chilly (below freezing "about three times a year" according to friends) and once every couple years or so they have an ice storm that shuts down the city. I can live with that. The wife needs warm sunshine in large doses or she loses her will to live. Austin has large doses of warm sunshine. It also has occasional rain, which I appreciate, because it means there are plants living there (no offense to you desert people, but I find the lack of ground cover and scant trees in the southwest unbelievably depressing).

- Cost of Living: We can afford a house there. This is an important factor that has unfortunately eliminated Hawaii and California from our lists.

- Food and Vegetarianism: Despite Texas' well-founded reputation for an obsession with beef, Austin is favorably comparable to Boston as far as finding vegetarian food goes. Vietnamese and Thai restaurants are abundant (Indian places regrettably less so) and due to large numbers of college students and other flaky types, more restaurants seem to believe it's in their interest to clearly identify vegetarian options on the their menus. Also, due to the lack of shitty cold weather, and close proximity to food-growing regions such as Mexico, rare New England delicacies such as avocados and mangoes are insanely cheap in the grocery stores. We didn't look too closely, but we assume that this is the case with most produce. The headquarters of Whole Foods is in Austin, so if we felt like spending a lot of money on food, we could. There's lots of yummy Mexican food around, too.

- The Dogs: Thanks to the Texan ethic of "leave my property alone or I'll kill you," there are few limits on what you can own, including animals. This means there are maniacs with reptile zoos (and probably pet pumas) in their houses, but it also means that the State Constitution prevents laws that prohibit or regulate specific breeds of dogs. (We pit bull owners are obsessed with "Breed Specific Legislation," or BSL.) That means no nasty surprises like the Boston muzzle law that snuck through a couple years ago, or the horrific Denver canine genocide that disproportionally affected law-abiding dog owners, in that otherwise sensible city (screw you Denver--it snows too much there anyway :P).

- Friends and Family: We have friends there, and it seems real easy to make new friends there. Due to air travel, we wouldn't be too far from other friends and family (and, in fact, we'd be about half-way between my in-laws' two houses), as opposed to smaller cities on the west coast that we are considering. It's actually a lot closer to my brother and his family.


The Negatives

- The Weather: Almost everyone we spoke to said "Wow, you got here after it cooled down," (highs were in the 90's the entire time we were there) "it was a lot hotter last week." Temperatures in the hundreds are routine, and it stays hot (apparently) from about April to September. No sweat for the wife--she works indoors and everything is air conditioned to meat locker temperatures; she'll have to buy more sweaters--but my job track seems to keep me in the outdoors most of the time. Also my favorite hobbies and recreation activities occur outside. Plenty of sweat for me: my shirt back was instantly soaking wet whenever we left the car. Chances of a heat-related injury for me? 100%. If not heat stroke, it'll be blister-producing sunburn. (Members of my family tend to wear more clothes in hot places, due to our saltine colored skin. My insane brother in Las Vegas wears more clothes on a desert hike than I do shoveling snow.)

- Public Transportation: There ain't none. The meager bus service looks like it compares unfavorably with, say, Worcester Mass. Everyone simply drives everywhere. I know this is normal for most Americans, but it is very alien to me. I'd get used to it, but is that a good thing? The city is pretty small and easy to get around, and there are a fair amount of people bicycling, but for the disadvantages to this, see "The Weather," (negatives), above.

- Culture Shock: Not so bad, actually. This was my number one concern, and found myself quite charmed by the place. Austinites are proud of Texas, but generally not proud of the President. The social/political vibe is pretty low key, compared to what I'm used to. It seems to be impolite to wear your politics on your sleeve, which I actually think is a good thing. People might get along better, if they weren't covered with bumper stickers and t-shirts proclaiming that they are right and if you disagree you're a jerk. Austin has an interesting culture of college students and hipsters, which I believe both help make a city a better place to live, even though I want nothing to do with either of them.



So our next step is to save up money again (hopefully we'll get a good tax refund) and go to Portland Oregon. It's my first choice for a place to live, but we are skeptical that it meets the wife's requirements (see weather, positive, above). We'll try to visit in February or March, so that we can get an honest feel for its cold and damp potential.

Comments

[droserary.livejournal.com]

In visiting Portland, if you go this winter, be aware that El Niño is projected to make our weather a bit dryer than usual, so you may just find yourself in the Pacific Northwest at the time we're just beginning to worry about summer drought.

True

[weavingfire.livejournal.com]

Portland has been dryer this year, but then we had a really wet winter...what was it, 40 days of rain?

Here's a suggestion...

[turil.livejournal.com]

cottonmanifesto and I can move to Austin, and you and Pywaket can move to Portland, OR. I think that would sort everyone out into the kinds of places they really want to live :-)

I'm just going along with the Vermont (or Nova Scotia) plan because it's better than the alternatives (no Pywaket, or staying here in Somerville and never having my own home or garden). And I don't mind the cold or snow that much. I just prefer hot and sweaty. And there is plenty of sun (definitely a requirement for me, too) in Vermont (and in the part of NS that we own the land).

Anyway, glad you liked Austin as much as you did. I'm not a big fan of Texas, but almost everything I've heard about Austin makes it sound great.

[brush-rat.livejournal.com]

Also, your insane brother avoids hiking in the desert for the three or four hottest months of the year, at least, that is in what people traditionally think of as the dessert. Zion National Park and Mt Charleston are fair game in the summer.

I'm still rooting for Portland. Some of my favorite people live up in that corner of the country, and the only real negative I've heard about it is the weather, which, after fifteen years in the desert doesn't sound like a negative to me at all.

[cottonmanifesto.livejournal.com]

It totally boggles your mind that more than 3 straight days of clouds and/or rain makes me want to slit my wrists, doesn't it?

I love my mental health, really I do.

It rained when we were in texas, but it was a nice warm rain that wasn't offensive in the least.

[seaweedgirle.livejournal.com]

Can you get away with not having a car if you bike? The town seems to be pretty bike friendly.

[urbpan.livejournal.com]

Probably, but I wouldn't. We're pretty sure of getting a car at some point, at the very latest right before we move.

[cottonmanifesto.livejournal.com]

Part of the reason we need a car is to take our dogs places!

[bunrab.livejournal.com]

Only if there's a shower at your workplace that you can use IMMEDIATELY after arriving, as the heat and humidity will have you covered completely in sweat after any ride longer than one block during any month between April and October.

[shadowofadoubt.livejournal.com]

I'm going to disagree with the public transportation thing. Many of my employees use the buses for everything. And there is a lot of cycling here too.

[urbpan.livejournal.com]

Nathan didn't seem too sold on them.

It's not that big a deal--I'm sure we'll have a car by the time we move anyway, I'm just so used to not needing one while within Boston, that it will feel weird to live somewhere where driving is such a part of life.

[bailey21975.livejournal.com]

Austin rocks! All kinds of cool music events going on, and close enough to Houston, San Antonio, Dallas to catch cultural events from time to time.

[urbpan.livejournal.com]

True enough. Although I realized that I don't go to cool music events any more. But the fact they are happening are a sign of the cultural health of the city.

[ardaraith.livejournal.com]

The friends that say its hot from April to September are exaggerating, in my opinion. It doesn't get truly (100) hot until July. Yes, we can get a heat wave in April, but its short lived. May is pleasant, and so is most if not all of June. July and August are simply our 'winter' here. Those are the months I hibernate. This was the first summer I rode my bike to work and I was a bit concerned going into the commitment, but it was unfounded. My body did what it does best - acclimate. I thought it was awesome. Because I was outdoors more than most of my friends, on a daily basis riding my bike, the summer seamed mild. Yes, I was ready for the 'cold' front that brought the lovely temps Austin is known for, but overall - I'll ride my bike next summer!

Public Transport is getting better. Cap Metro is putting in commuter rail from Leander to downtown, and installing an electric trolley that will snake around the booming East side into downtown. The city is progressive and looking forward. There is room for input.

Glad you liked our fair city! :)

[urbpan.livejournal.com]

Good news all around. Thanks.

[cottonmanifesto.livejournal.com]

i almost peed my pants at saltine colored skin. :)

[ndozo.livejournal.com]

Yeah, You guys are definitely a couple of crackers.

[by-steph.livejournal.com]

A light rail is coming to Austin. Existing tracks have been purchased and now stations and commuter trains are to be added soon. There are a lot of bike lanes, however, you are correct that the city is designed for cars.

As for the extreme heat, it helps if you don't fluctuate between air conditioning and the outdoors. If you are going to be outside all day, stay outside. Wear loose fitting, light clothing and always have something to drink with you. Shade is also your friend. You do adjust after awhile.

[ellettra.livejournal.com]

i love austin, but the heat just kills me. i need more moderate temps in order to retain MY will to live. i'm in Eugene, OR at the moment and it is lovely. the first year was difficult in terms of getting used to the rain (i came from oklahoma/texas), but after that it's been VERY smooth sailing ever since. great public transpo up in portland, which is a delightful city. i'd vote for portland over austin only because it's more moderate of temp and close to so much wonderfulness... seattle, san francisco, canada. all big plusses for me. my partner is about to graduate from law school and i'm pushing for portland. :)

[centerstage121.livejournal.com]

This has nothing to do with the entry, but..
I found a four leaf clover.
=) There's a picture of it in my journal.

[urbpan.livejournal.com]

Truth be told, you found a four-leaf woodsorrel! But as woodsorrel is, like clover, trifoliate, it's just as lucky.

[tsunami-ryuu.livejournal.com]

Ever thought about checking out St. Louis, Missouri? I'm a fan of the place. It has its share of snow and big summer storms, but it's sunnier on the whole than New England, plus it's a gorgeous city. The cost of living is very reasonable (again, in comparison to big cities in New England and the Mid-Atlantic region), and nature abounds. You've got the Mississippi, Merimac, and Missouri rivers all within driving distance, plenty of natural land and parks, Paleozoic fossil beds cropping out along the roadcuts, a major migratory bird flyway, and lots of research going on by the universities in the city (Washington University, University of Missouri-- St. Louis, St. Louis University, etc.). The food selection is pretty good, too, although seafoods can be a bit pricey. But you've got lots of food choices at places like the Delmar Loop, Olive Boulevard, Downtown, University City, and so forth, and the public transportation is decent.

Best of luck in your home-hunting search!

[cottonmanifesto.livejournal.com]

Nooooo snoooooooooooooooow. :)

Honestly, I've lived in Canada, the Midwest, and New England all my long life and I am seriously done with the snow for now.

[miz-geek.livejournal.com]

I'm so glad you liked it, and that you were able to appreciate its charm (Texas is a weird state - more complex than most people think). A decision this important ought to be an informed one. Your review seems pretty accurate as far as I remember the city.

And hey, Austin is only an hour from Waco!

[rinkori.livejournal.com]

I live in Dallas, and I have to say that Texan weather varies widely depending on the region. (It's a big state, after all!) For example in the north/panhandle it gets a lot colder than it does in the Gulf Coast areas.

[bunrab.livejournal.com]

Funny, my impression is that Austin has more opinionated bumper stickers and t-shirts than most places. Certainly, a LOT more than anywhere in Maryland. One time a few months ago I spotted a car in front of us that had 5 or 6 bumper stickers, and I said to squirrel_magnet, hey, there's finally a car that looks like the ones in Texas. As we pulled closer - yep, you guessed it, Texas plates.

[urbpan.livejournal.com]

I'm used to Boston/Cambridge, where everybody's got something to say on their car.

Austin as a place to live

[(Anonymous)]

Pro--living in a state with 5,000 species of flowering plants. Really!! There is some fantanstic botanizing here and plenty of people to do it with.

Pro--Central Market. Makes Whole Foods look skimpy

Pro--proximity to Hill Country

Pro--really friendly atmosphere--a mix of high tech, hippy, cowboy, and college

Pro--live music capital of the U.S.

Con--only cheap as compared to CA, HA or urban east coast. Housing is pricey compared with the rest of the state

Con--insane traffic

Con--college football mania

[urbpan.livejournal.com]

On your cons:
"only cheap compared to..." everywhere else I want to live.

"insane traffic" Not compared to Boston! I was, by far, the worst driver on the streets of Austin while I was there (that I saw, anyway).

"college football mania" Yeah, that's pretty bad, but I can survive it, I hope. I've lived in the shadow of Fenway Park for the past 5 years.

[(Anonymous)]

I just happened on this blog by complete accident while looking for information about planting a garden in Austin in October (yes, it's possible, in fact, it's ideal)...anyhoo, I just had to say this.

I love Austin, loooove it, but the traffic is absolutely, completely insane. If you do not live and work in the same quadrant of the city, you will spend what will seem an interminable amount of time sitting in traffic or driving really fast on very congested freeways. I'm not sure which sucks more.

I lived in Boston for a year. Boston drivers are crazier -- what the hell is that turn left when the light turns green b.s.? -- but Austin traffic is much more annoying and soul-draining. And we have no viable public transportation here yet. It is promised, and I hope the promise pans out.

In short, you would like it here, but you would complain about the traffic all the time like the rest of us.